Monday – Starting to dial back the training for the upcoming trips. 30min run in the arvo.
Tuesday – Fingerboard in the morning – 2 arm chis – tape on fingers but still pulled good weight – would’ve liked to do 7/53 but 3 taped fingers it wasn’t the best option as some of the grips are a bit too friction dependent. Limit boulder session in the evening. Finished off with some GT repeaters.
Wednesday – Core at lunch time then circuits with 6kg vest. Brutal. 3 probs x 4 – 5min rest. + GT repeaters to cook myself a little more.
Thursday – Rest day.
Friday – Failed 7/53 hang session. Super tuckered. Not feeling 100%. Also aborted evening circuit session to rest up.
Saturday – Arvo session at Elphinstone. Not feeling that good but still managed 3 pitches clean up to 31 (tiger vinyl)
Sunday – Late session at Elphinstone. Feeling a little better and conditions were mint. No fall day. Only 3 pitches due to time and not wanting to put myself in a hole for the coming weeks. Tiger Snatch, Tiger Cat and Bandula. Good session. Feel ready to spin the dial up 😉
On a side note – some slight issues with my left elbow/bicep. Will monitor closely. Might need to see a pro for some management tactics.
Monday – Core class and then an easy endurance workout (3 x 10 – 5min b/w)
Tuesday – 1 arm chisel fingerboard + crimp repeaters in the morning and circuits in the evening. Same 3 boulders but 5 times. Still 5min rest and + 5kg.
Wednesday – Rest day. In the city for work.
Thursday – 2 arm chisel fingerboard plus 3 reps of crimp repeaters to finish. Limit boulder in the evening at the Bowlo.
Friday – Strength at home in the morning then circuits in the evening. 32 moves x 5 – 5 min b/w +5kg. Skin sore. Tuckered.
Saturday – A slow morning waiting for the weather to clear. Quick warmup at the Bowlo then headed down the the Glen with Doug and Tom. Crag board warmup and then fired Moonshadow (hard 32, easy 33 🤷♂️) First go. Psyched. Was fun as the top was wet.
Sunday – Elphinstone with a good crew. Conditions were insane. Managed to send Beta Vinyl 33. Super happy as it is one of the harder rock routes I have done. It’s v9/10ish into a long 31. Super classic and happy to have it done. 4th day on.
Time to start cutting down on the volume and bumping up the intensity. Also playing around with some specific Groove Train hangboard repeaters…
Friday – Bowlo limit session with Luke and started resetting the 45 with 100 Beastmaker holds. It will be good!
Watch Free Solo in the evening. Top film.
Saturday – Villawood with Tom and Dave. 11 routes up to 29.
Chicken at Frangos on the way home for recovery. BamBam!
Sunday – Yoga. Bowlo limit session with Tom on the new 45 layout. Top session.
Another good week. Feels good to lowering the volume a bit and letting the body do its thing. Feel a little flat but fingers crossed should be sharpening up for Tuesdays Moonpig comp and the NSW States on Saturday.
Tuesday – Early Campus – 1 hour. Flared up the left elbow which is a little annoying but in hindsight I have be dropping the hammer in terms of volume so wasn’t that much of a surprise. Will just have to work around it till in calms down.
Wednesday – Rest day – 30 min run
Thursday – System board (6 reps) in the morning then Camp St in the arvo with Ben and Lee. Felt ok in the evening. Nice to try some new blocs on different holds/walls.
Friday – Villawood with Dave. Felt ok but a little taxed from the late boulder session yesterday. Looking forward to being fresh and getting a better grasp of where things are at. 11 routes up to 29 with some doubles.
Oh yeah and we ate some killer chicken on the way home.
Saturday – Quick strength session in the morning.
Sunday – Diamond Falls with Brecon at 7:30. Another 35 degree day so trying to make the most of the coldish overnight temps. Conditions weren’t crazy bad but not that enjoyable. 4 laps in total. Manage to get up Lightyears (31) which was the goal for the day.
Beer and pizza was consumed.
Another biggish week in the bank. A few hard sessions next week then will turn back the dial for the upcoming comp and next block. All in all, things have been going well.
Wednesday – Morning system board session (increased to 5 reps) followed by a freestyle boulder session at The Blackheath Lab. 2 hours of cutting sick.
Thursday – Fingerboard – digits felt alive and well 🙂
Friday – Super early morning at Gateway with Luke to beat the 38 degree day. Played on Middle Earth (should’ve done it!!) and Fighting Urak – Hai. In the arvo did a strength session. Pretty cooked.
Saturday – Rest day – 30 min run
Sunday – System board in the morning then hit Baronia with Lee in the arvo. Fun session is shit conditions. Some speed climbing antics with the younger generation (me on Don’t Believe the Hype and Angie on Don’t Believe the Tripe… I lost…). Also lots of training talk with Lee to make sure time is being spent on the right things. Talking and hanging out with people that continually challenge themselves is highly recommended.
Psyched to have another solid week in the bank. Body and fingers feel worked. Volume is pretty high at the moment but hopefully it can cope with it. Would like to get in another limit boulder session in so will address that in the coming week (If it is too hot maybe just a limit campus workout).
Monday – Fingerboard, core class and a quick endurance session (3 x 10 min on the wall with 5 min between) to kick the new training block off.
Tuesday – Rest day – In the city for work. 30 min run in the late evening. Good to get this in because sitting on the train for around 5 hours sucks…
Wednesday – System board in the morning (4 hold / 4 reps). I have been meaning to do a block of system boarding and have finally made time for it. At the moment I’m doing 4 grip types (sloper, chisel, open 3 and crimp) in a really slow and controlled way (10 – 12 moves) aiming for a work time between 30 – 45 secs with a 2min rest between reps, and 8-10 between sets. I’ll report back on how it goes in a bit 🙂
Bowlo in the arvo. 6 boulders, each 3 times (3 min rest between goes).
Thursday – Fingerboard and strength. Did a combined session to see what it would be like. Not a fan but maybe that is the point. It felt hard and I don’t think I nailed the balance (too many strength exercises).
Friday – Villawood with Luke. 12 routes. A variety of singles and doubles up to 28. Fuck I love this style.
Saturday – Rest Day – 40 min run (a bit too hilly in hindsight).
Sunday – System board in the morning and Elphinstone with Luke, Matt B and Matty P in the arvo. Couple of laps on Tiger Snatch and 2 goes on Beta Vinyl. Temps were junk but good to get out and work on climbing whilst in an uncomfortable state. Brain training 🙂
Good to have week one done. Hard but good.
It always takes a little to adjust to full training mode but give it a few weeks and it will be the way of life. If you want to make it happen you will. If you don’t you won’t.
Monday – Rest – Getting organised for Christmas Day.
Tuesday – Christmas Day
Wednesday – Boxing Day – Adamsfield with Bisso and Grug. First shot boom! Finally sent the link-up after thinking about it for quite a few years. Also did a route in the Bear Pit (some 25) and Red Back Fever 26 at the Trapeze. Good day.
Wednesday – Rest – Travel to Melbourne to catch the boat.
Thursday – Rest – Travel
Friday – Adamsfield with Gazza. Tried the Magic Potion Extension. Fell on the last hard move after doing a lap on Magic Potion, Sub Zero and Sub Zero Extension. Guttered to not send it packing but fingers crossed I can nail it next day.
Saturday – Quick session on Gazza’s wall.
Sunday – Pipes for a couple of hours. Put the draws on Pleasant Screams for Bisso.
Not heaps of climbing due to heading to Tassie but was cool to finally get out to Adamsfield and get close. Feel like a different climber which I’m psyched about.
Wednesday – Finger board in the morning the boulder session + some powerful circuits at the end arvo. Cool to see Garth at the Bowlo.
Thursday – Rest day – In the city for work.
Friday – 3 easy 10 min blocks to get the blood flowing. Also made a rollie bar for the home setup. It pretty simply, Just a bit bit of dowel that sits between my rings. It has a bit of friction but will do the job to activate the wrist.
Saturday – Elphinstone with Stu and Lee. The forecast was total junk but surprisingly the humidity was pretty low so not all was bad. 5 laps. Played on the Kitten Mittens drive by move again quickly. 2 goes on Beta Vinyl. First time on it and was pretty impressed. All moves went pretty quick. A little more refinement and should be good to start having a crack. It’s like a little bouldery glen route (4 bolts of biz) then a pumpy 31 to finish. Warmed down (actually cooked myself) on Love Vinyl.
Sunday – Helped out Lee and Ben for a couple of hours at Shipley teaching some young kids to lead climb in the morning. Baronia in the arvo with Kerrin and Amanda. Tried Mechanical Animals. Hot and still.
It is always a tricky time of year. One day you can feel in shape and the next a weak slug. I think it’s best not to think about it too much. Just go with the flow and be patient.
Monday – Finely feeling some good progression on the fingerboard. Time to add another session into the weekly structure.
Missed core class due to some hectic work issues.
Tuesday – Bit of an epic campus session (managed 1-4-7 on the small rungs with left, close to right) followed by 1 hour of limit bouldering.
Wednesday – Hangboard around lunch then 4×4’s (about 55 moves – 8min rest) at the Bowlo in the evening. Feeling pretty cooked. Think the power session was a little too big yesterday.
Thursday – Rest. In the city for work.
Friday – Elphinstone with a good crew. 5 laps in total. Played on Kitten Mittens crux (hard…), photos on Sitting Bull, quick investigation up Bandular then up Tiger Cat (fell last move with no stopping to rest at mid-height. First time I have stuck the slot since doing it).
Didn’t fell super focused, just wanted to climb some rocks. Fun day.
Saturday – Baronia – Arvo session trying Mechanical Animals. Fell with my left foot up and releasing. Fingers crossed the weather is kind before Tassie.
Sunday – Rest.
Good week. Felt the forearms were pretty cooked from the extra fingerboard session and the epic power session on Tuesday. Still no enough stretching. All in all, was a good hardish week.