Monday – 7/53 fingerboard – fingers felt tops. After the small Gramps trip they felt asleep. Now all is good. Probably the strongest they have been. Strength in the evening.
Tuesday – Limit boulder in the Bowlo.
Wednesday – Limit boulder in the Bowlo.
Thursday – Rest day. Travel to NZ for some Castle Hill boulder action for 10 days with a good crew (Doug, Dave, Lee and Kamil).
Friday – Spittle/Quantum
Saturday – Flock Hill
Sunday – Flock Hill
Monday – Strength in the morning and 7/53 fingerboard session in the evening.
Tuesday – Rest day. In the city for work.
Wednesday – Limit boulder in the Bowlo.
Thursday – Strength in the morning. Campus in the evening.
Friday – Underworld with Tom. Tried Sack of Woe a few times and then finished the evening at the Bowlo with 3 lots of 10min on the wall to get some blood flowing.
Saturday – Rest day.
Sunday – Elphinstone – tried the pig x 1. Conditions were utter junk. Not psyched.
Monday – Rest day. Big weekend.
Tuesday – 7/53 fingerboard and limit boulder at the Bolwo in the evening.
Wednesday – Strength at home (new Dan John style – 5 exercises – 3 reps x 3). Campus in the evening.
Thursday – 7/53 fingerboard in the morning. Campus in the evening.
Friday – Rest day.
Saturday – Elphinstone – tried the pig x 3
Sunday – Elphinstone – tried the pig x 3
Monday – Back into it and psyched. Was good to focus on the GT but now need to focus on more power and strength.
7/53 – new grip (2 arm 3 finger chisel beastmaker 1000, 1 arm middle chisel beastmaker 2000 and 2 arm open 3 beastmaker 2000).
Bowlo in the evening – 6 x 3 probs moonboard (3 min between probs).
Tuesday – Rest day. In the city for work.
Wednesday – 7/53 fingerboard workout. Fun boulder in the evening.
Thursday – Campus – just some random moves every 2 minutes to get into it.
Friday – 3 x 10min easy endurance. Yoga.
Saturday – Elphinstone – tried the pig x 3
Sunday – Elphinstone – tried the pig x 3
Monday – Another session on Sneaky Snake. Coming together. Still trying it without the left start to save time and energy for the top section. Feels good. Also had a play on Agent of Cool with Ryan.
Tuesday – Rest Day.
Wednesday – 2 goes on Sneaky Snake.
Thursday – 2 goes on Sneaky Snake.
Friday – Rest day. Helped Caitlin with her long run down south.
Saturday – 1 go on Sneak Snake. Fell last hard move. Guttered. Put in the effort but didn’t come away with it. Looking forward to getting back on this rig ASAP.
Started the drive home. Decided to go the back way.
Sunday – Rest day. Still driving.
Monday – Fingerboard – 2 arm chis. Skin pretty shit from the weekend but good to get some weight into them.
Tuesday – Rest Day. In the city for work.
Wednesday – Small boulder in the arvo, GT repeaters and 3 x 10min easy on the wall.
Thursday – Rest day. Start the drive to the Grampians.
Friday – Finish drive. An evening walk to get the blood flowing.
Saturday – Mr J to warm up and then sent the Groove Train first shot. BOOM!!! Psyched. Felt super good.
Sunday – Checked out southern exposure and then put the draws on Sneaky Snake.
Monday – Rest day. Some Yoga.
Tuesday – Visited the physiotherapist in the morning to get some advice on my left bicep issue. Evening had a max campus (chisel grip) and finished off with some GT repeaters.
Wednesday – Hang board (2 arm chisel) at midday and circuits in the evening. circuit session.
Thursday – Rest day – Travel to Gramps to meet Stu, Matty and Kamil for a 3 day mission on the Groove Train.
Friday – 3 goes on the GT.
Saturday – 2 goes on the GT.
Sunday – 2 goes on the GT.
A super awesome weekend. Psych was super high and things felt good. Weather was not the best but all was good.
Feel stupidly crossing to the whales mouth on one of my goes.
Hopefully next week things work out.
Monday – Starting to dial back the training for the upcoming trips. 30min run in the arvo.
Tuesday – Fingerboard in the morning – 2 arm chis – tape on fingers but still pulled good weight – would’ve liked to do 7/53 but 3 taped fingers it wasn’t the best option as some of the grips are a bit too friction dependent. Limit boulder session in the evening. Finished off with some GT repeaters.
Wednesday – Core at lunch time then circuits with 6kg vest. Brutal. 3 probs x 4 – 5min rest. + GT repeaters to cook myself a little more.
Thursday – Rest day.
Friday – Failed 7/53 hang session. Super tuckered. Not feeling 100%. Also aborted evening circuit session to rest up.
Saturday – Arvo session at Elphinstone. Not feeling that good but still managed 3 pitches clean up to 31 (tiger vinyl)
Sunday – Late session at Elphinstone. Feeling a little better and conditions were mint. No fall day. Only 3 pitches due to time and not wanting to put myself in a hole for the coming weeks. Tiger Snatch, Tiger Cat and Bandula. Good session. Feel ready to spin the dial up 😉
On a side note – some slight issues with my left elbow/bicep. Will monitor closely. Might need to see a pro for some management tactics.
Monday – Core class and then an easy endurance workout (3 x 10 – 5min b/w)
Tuesday – 1 arm chisel fingerboard + crimp repeaters in the morning and circuits in the evening. Same 3 boulders but 5 times. Still 5min rest and + 5kg.
Wednesday – Rest day. In the city for work.
Thursday – 2 arm chisel fingerboard plus 3 reps of crimp repeaters to finish. Limit boulder in the evening at the Bowlo.
Friday – Strength at home in the morning then circuits in the evening. 32 moves x 5 – 5 min b/w +5kg. Skin sore. Tuckered.
Saturday – A slow morning waiting for the weather to clear. Quick warmup at the Bowlo then headed down the the Glen with Doug and Tom. Crag board warmup and then fired Moonshadow (hard 32, easy 33 🤷♂️) First go. Psyched. Was fun as the top was wet.
Sunday – Elphinstone with a good crew. Conditions were insane. Managed to send Beta Vinyl 33. Super happy as it is one of the harder rock routes I have done. It’s v9/10ish into a long 31. Super classic and happy to have it done. 4th day on.
Time to start cutting down on the volume and bumping up the intensity. Also playing around with some specific Groove Train hangboard repeaters…
Monday – Core class and then an easy endurance workout (3 x 10 – 5min b/w)
Tuesday – 7/53 on the hang session. Missed the open 3 and pinch due to running out of time for La Sportiva Summit Gear evening. Some awesome progression on the first 2 grips.
Wednesday – Morning Moonboard (6 problems x 3 – 3 min b/w). Circuits in the evening 3 boulders (32 moves) x 4 – 5 min b/w + 5kg vest)
Thursday – Rest day.
Friday – 2 arm chisel fingerboard plus 3 reps of crimp repeaters to finish. Circuits in the evening 3 boulders (32 moves) x 5 – 5 min b/w + 5kg vest)
Saturday – Elphinstone – 4 routes. Tried Beta Vinyl and Tiger Cat into the top of Beta Vinyl. Not the best conditions but made the most of it.
Sunday – DF with Stu and Clint. Shit conditions – 3 routes (Hairline, dogged Dog Bite, dogged Mr Tickle).
Week wasn’t the best due to work stress and disrupted week nights but managed to get the top priority sessions in.
Monday – 7/53 hang then core class.
Tuesday – Rest day. In the city for work.
Wednesday – 2 arm chisel hang in the morning. Freestyle limit boulder in the evening at the Bowlo (1 and half hours).
Thursday – Rest day. Travel to Tassie.
Friday – A few circuits (6 x grade 27ish) on Gazza’s wall after 30min limit boulder.
Saturday – Sandy River with a Bisso, Garry and Dan. 23 x 3, 25 x 2, 26 x 3.
Sunday – 1 arm chisel on Awesome Woody board. 3 at straight, 3 at 90. 3 sets of crimp repeaters and some general core jazz on the rings.
Strange week due to 4 days in Tassie. Feel ok but not awesome. A few big weeks so that is probably expected.
Also time to get on the carrots 🙂
Monday – 7/53 hang then core class.
Tuesday – Rest day. 20min yoga.
Wednesday – 2 arm chisel (6 x 10sec max) hangs around lunch time. Limit boulder in the evening. Felt cooked as in the evening boulder session. Probably didn’t do the hangs early enough in the day.
Thursday – Strength in the morning the circuits (4x4x4 – 3min between) in the evening. Pretty tired.
Friday – 1 arm chisel (6 hangs – 3 straight – 3 at 90) 10 secs max. Limit Boulder in the evening.
Saturday – Rest day.
Sunday – Elphinstone with Luke. Awesome conditions. Tried beta vinyl x 4 and tiger cat into love vinyl at the end of the day. + 20 min yoga.
Week was pretty good. Pretty tired but having the awesome conditions on Sunday was the highlight. So bloody good!!
Monday – Core class.
Tuesday – Good limit boulder session. Felt good.
Wednesday – 2 arm chisel fingerboard. System board (4 reps) and easy endurance (3 x 10min blocks)
Thursday – Rest Day – travel to Melbourne.
Friday – Tried Groove Train x 1
Saturday – Tried Groove Train x 2
Sunday – Tried Groove Train x 2
Super rad to get back on the Taipan wall. After about 9 years. GT felt awesome. Fell crossing to the whales mouth on the last day. Pretty stupid. Can’t wait for the easter break to give it hell!
Late last year I went back to the Grampians with Brecon to film the process of climbing The Wheel. I hope you like it.
Monday – Rest day. 30min run.
Tuesday – 7/53 on the fingerboard. Feeling some progression. Boulder session in the evening at the bowlo.
Wednesday – Strength at home then 3 x 10 min of easy climbing at the bowl.
Thursday – System board – 4 reps in the AM. Limit boulder in the evening.
Friday – Rest day.
Saturday – 7/53 workout. Elphinstone in the afternoon – Tried beta vinyl. Conditions were pretty junk.
Sunday – Back at the stone. Tried beta vinyl again.
Monday – Hangboard and core class. Fingers are adapting well with the current 7/53 workout. I’ll continue to squeeze as much out of it as possible.
Tuesday – Rest day. In the city for work.
Wednesday – Morning hangboard and then the glen in the arvo with Luke. 2 laps to warmup then 3 goes on Moonshadow. Felt good. Fell off the 3rd last hard move.
Thursday – System board in the morning. Boulder in arvo (2 hours) then filming jazz with Brecon till about 10:30. Wrecked.
Friday – Glen with Luke. Super tuckered. Tried Moonshadow. Fell on initial jump. Called it early. Yesterday smashed me.
Saturday – Elphinstone. 3 routes. tired. Should’ve rested in hindsight.
Sometimes it’s braver to rest.
Sunday – Rest day.
A pretty shit week really. Too much rock time and not enough rest. Thursday really put a spanner in the works. Will need to rest up, re-group and keep on the structured path.
Shit got real. The Grampians, the best climbing area in Australia is not going to be the same.
Do everyone a favour please sign up to the Victorian Climbing Club to help fun people fight the good fight.
It’s only $75!
Monday – Light core session.
Tuesday – Moon Pig comp
Wednesday – A small boulder at the bowl (30min) then 2 x 60 moves with full recovery in-between.
Thursday – Rest day.
Friday – Super light warm up to keep the body awake 🙂
Saturday – NSW States. Super happy with the way I climbed and managed to take 3rd in a pretty stacked field. Glad I went in it. Super challenging but rewarding. I love that you have one opportunity to perform and you have to make it count.
Sunday – DF with Lee. 27, 29 and tried Dog Bite 31 x 3. Should’ve refined beta a little more on my first go. Felt like I should of done it, but didn’t…
A good week. Nice to lower volume and feel sharp. Strength is present. Looking forward to the cool temps in a few months as I feel I’m on the right direction.
A fun little Moonpig battle with a few crushers from South Australia.
Monday – Fingerboard and System board (4 reps) in the evening. Fingers are starting to work.
Tuesday – Rest day. 30 min jog after train ride home for the city.
Wednesday – Fingerboard and System board (4 reps).
Went to Glenbrook in the evening with Mel and Caitlin to hear Ryan Sandes talk about running.
Thursday – Easy endurance recovery – 10min x 3 (5min between)
Friday – Bowlo limit session with Luke and started resetting the 45 with 100 Beastmaker holds. It will be good!
Watch Free Solo in the evening. Top film.
Saturday – Villawood with Tom and Dave. 11 routes up to 29.
Chicken at Frangos on the way home for recovery. BamBam!
Sunday – Yoga. Bowlo limit session with Tom on the new 45 layout. Top session.
Another good week. Feels good to lowering the volume a bit and letting the body do its thing. Feel a little flat but fingers crossed should be sharpening up for Tuesdays Moonpig comp and the NSW States on Saturday.
