Week 4

Monday – Fingerboard and core class.

Tuesday – Early Campus – 1 hour. Flared up the left elbow which is a little annoying but in hindsight I have be dropping the hammer in terms of volume so wasn’t that much of a surprise. Will just have to work around it till in calms down.

Wednesday – Rest day – 30 min run

Thursday – System board (6 reps) in the morning then Camp St in the arvo with Ben and Lee. Felt ok in the evening. Nice to try some new blocs on different holds/walls.

Friday – Villawood with Dave. Felt ok but a little taxed from the late boulder session yesterday. Looking forward to being fresh and getting a better grasp of where things are at. 11 routes up to 29 with some doubles.

Oh yeah and we ate some killer chicken on the way home.

Saturday – Quick strength session in the morning.

Sunday – Diamond Falls with Brecon at 7:30. Another 35 degree day so trying to make the most of the coldish overnight temps. Conditions weren’t crazy bad but not that enjoyable. 4 laps in total. Manage to get up Lightyears (31) which was the goal for the day.

Beer and pizza was consumed.

Another biggish week in the bank. A few hard sessions next week then will turn back the dial for the upcoming comp and next block. All in all, things have been going well.

Week 3

Monday – Fingerboard and core class.

Tuesday – Rest day – In the city for work.

Wednesday – Morning system board session (increased to 5 reps) followed by a freestyle boulder session at The Blackheath Lab. 2 hours of cutting sick.

Thursday – Fingerboard – digits felt alive and well 🙂

Friday – Super early morning at Gateway with Luke to beat the 38 degree day. Played on Middle Earth (should’ve done it!!) and Fighting Urak – Hai. In the arvo did a strength session. Pretty cooked.

Saturday – Rest day – 30 min run

Sunday – System board in the morning then hit Baronia with Lee in the arvo. Fun session is shit conditions. Some speed climbing antics with the younger generation (me on Don’t Believe the Hype and Angie on Don’t Believe the Tripe… I lost…). Also lots of training talk with Lee to make sure time is being spent on the right things. Talking and hanging out with people that continually challenge themselves is highly recommended.

Psyched to have another solid week in the bank. Body and fingers feel worked. Volume is pretty high at the moment but hopefully it can cope with it. Would like to get in another limit boulder session in so will address that in the coming week (If it is too hot maybe just a limit campus workout).

Week 2

Monday – Fingerboard, core class and a quick endurance session (3 x 10 min on the wall with 5 min between) to kick the new training block off.

Tuesday – Rest day – In the city for work. 30 min run in the late evening. Good to get this in because sitting on the train for around 5 hours sucks…

Wednesday – System board in the morning (4 hold / 4 reps). I have been meaning to do a block of system boarding and have finally made time for it. At the moment I’m doing 4 grip types (sloper, chisel, open 3 and crimp) in a really slow and controlled way (10 – 12 moves) aiming for a work time between 30 – 45 secs with a 2min rest between reps, and 8-10 between sets. I’ll report back on how it goes in a bit 🙂

Bowlo in the arvo. 6 boulders, each 3 times (3 min rest between goes).

Thursday – Fingerboard and strength. Did a combined session to see what it would be like. Not a fan but maybe that is the point. It felt hard and I don’t think I nailed the balance (too many strength exercises).

Friday – Villawood with Luke. 12 routes. A variety of singles and doubles up to 28. Fuck I love this style.

Saturday – Rest Day – 40 min run (a bit too hilly in hindsight).

Sunday – System board in the morning and Elphinstone with Luke, Matt B and Matty P in the arvo. Couple of laps on Tiger Snatch and 2 goes on Beta Vinyl. Temps were junk but good to get out and work on climbing whilst in an uncomfortable state. Brain training 🙂

Good to have week one done. Hard but good.

It always takes a little to adjust to full training mode but give it a few weeks and it will be the way of life. If you want to make it happen you will. If you don’t you won’t.

Week 1

Not much to report this week as I rested all week.

Just resetting the mind and body, a little planning and some quality chill time.

Let the hard work begin 💥

Week 52

Monday – Rest – Getting organised for Christmas Day.

Tuesday – Christmas Day

Wednesday – Boxing Day – Adamsfield with Bisso and Grug. First shot boom! Finally sent the link-up after thinking about it for quite a few years. Also did a route in the Bear Pit (some 25) and Red Back Fever 26 at the Trapeze. Good day.

I’ll go into detail about the link in a separate post 🙂

Thursday – Rest

Friday – Sandy River with Bisso. Tried a few hard things but it was hot as fuck as I wasn’t that into it.

Saturday – Bouldered at Gazza’s for a couple of hours.

Sunday – Shed Fingerboard + 30 min run.

Hectic time of year but was awesome to make the most of Boxing Day and get the link-up done. Such a rad route. Chuffed!! Now time to chill and enjoy the festive season.

Magic Potion Extension

I first headed out to Adamsfield at the ripe old age of 16 and managed to snag my first 25. Ever since then it has always been a place that has provided good times and great memories.

The Magic Potion Extension links the Sub Zero boulder problem (V8) into the classic Sam Edwards, Magic Potion (29). A power endurance monster.

I was fortunate to make the second ascent just a few weeks after Ryan Sklenica snagged the first. Make time for it peeps. It is a cracker!

Baffle Days – The Wheel of Life

A close friend and bloody good climber Tom O’Halloran started a podcast and I was lucky to be guest number one.

The Baffle Days podcast is THE Australian climbing podcast. Chatting to the old school legends, modern day heroes and everyone else who make up our awesome community. Tune in for stories, opinions, training and nutrition info. Spreading the love.

You can find the podcast on the Website or on iTunes.

Week 51

Monday – Rest – In the city for work.

Tuesday – Fingerboard and packing for Tassie.

Wednesday – Rest – Travel to Melbourne to catch the boat.

Thursday – Rest – Travel

Friday – Adamsfield with Gazza. Tried the Magic Potion Extension. Fell on the last hard move after doing a lap on Magic Potion, Sub Zero and Sub Zero Extension. Guttered to not send it packing but fingers crossed I can nail it next day.

Saturday – Quick session on Gazza’s wall.

Sunday – Pipes for a couple of hours. Put the draws on Pleasant Screams for Bisso.

Not heaps of climbing due to heading to Tassie but was cool to finally get out to Adamsfield and get close. Feel like a different climber which I’m psyched about.

Hopefully get it done before heading home.

Week 50

Monday – Fingerboard, core class and some EE

Tuesday – A little campus + boulder with Luke.

Wednesday – Finger board in the morning the boulder session + some powerful circuits at the end arvo. Cool to see Garth at the Bowlo.

Thursday – Rest day – In the city for work.

Friday – 3 easy 10 min blocks to get the blood flowing. Also made a rollie bar for the home setup. It pretty simply, Just a bit bit of dowel that sits between my rings. It has a bit of friction but will do the job to activate the wrist.

Saturday – Elphinstone with Stu and Lee. The forecast was total junk but surprisingly the humidity was pretty low so not all was bad. 5 laps. Played on the Kitten Mittens drive by move again quickly. 2 goes on Beta Vinyl. First time on it and was pretty impressed. All moves went pretty quick. A little more refinement and should be good to start having a crack. It’s like a little bouldery glen route (4 bolts of biz) then a pumpy 31 to finish. Warmed down (actually cooked myself) on Love Vinyl.

Sunday – Helped out Lee and Ben for a couple of hours at Shipley teaching some young kids to lead climb in the morning. Baronia in the arvo with Kerrin and Amanda. Tried Mechanical Animals. Hot and still.

It is always a tricky time of year. One day you can feel in shape and the next a weak slug. I think it’s best not to think about it too much. Just go with the flow and be patient.

Week 49

Monday – Finely feeling some good progression on the fingerboard. Time to add another session into the weekly structure.

Missed core class due to some hectic work issues.

Tuesday – Bit of an epic campus session (managed 1-4-7 on the small rungs with left, close to right) followed by 1 hour of limit bouldering.

Wednesday – Hangboard around lunch then 4×4’s (about 55 moves – 8min rest) at the Bowlo in the evening. Feeling pretty cooked. Think the power session was a little too big yesterday.

Thursday – Rest. In the city for work.

Friday – Elphinstone with a good crew. 5 laps in total. Played on Kitten Mittens crux (hard…), photos on Sitting Bull, quick investigation up Bandular then up Tiger Cat (fell last move with no stopping to rest at mid-height. First time I have stuck the slot since doing it).

Didn’t fell super focused, just wanted to climb some rocks. Fun day.

Saturday – Baronia – Arvo session trying Mechanical Animals. Fell with my left foot up and releasing. Fingers crossed the weather is kind before Tassie.

Sunday – Rest.

Good week. Felt the forearms were pretty cooked from the extra fingerboard session and the epic power session on Tuesday. Still no enough stretching. All in all, was a good hardish week.

Oh yeah, I also turned 8c+ this week 🤘

Week 48

Monday – Fingerboard (7/53 session – 3 grips like last week) and core class. A stupid amount of 1 arm deadlifts left my back cooked as a goose.

Tuesday – Rest. In the city for work.

Wednesday – Boulder at the Bowlo. 2 hours. Felt awesome.

Thursday – Bowlo. Felt a bit cooked from work. A brief campus before getting on the woodie.

Friday – Rest. Helping Caitlin at a market.

Saturday – 2 hour session at St Peters. Doing lots of problems up to 9. Almost ticked the bottom sector. Super fun and great to be on different styles of blocs. Most of the problems relied on a good amount of body power which was nice.

Sunday – Rest. Helping Caitlin at a market.

Week was a bit meh… Was meant to be a hard week but due to being in the city all weekend I decided to make this a rest week and start fresh in the coming week. All is good. Feeling good just need to knuckle down and work on a few other areas in the coming weeks (flexibility, strength/core, campusing and some power endurance).

Week 47

Monday – Started off with an afternoon fingerboard (7/53 x 3). 2 grips (open, chisel) on the Beastmaker 1000 outside edge. Both grips are 1 arm hangs. Then a two arm hang on the Beastmaker 10mm mircos in a 3 finger crimp with no thumb (feet on the ground currently). Session was good, finding the left chisel is a little fragile and being mindful to keep form so opting for more than less. Also went to core class. Few mobility exercises to warm up then the usually upper body smashing was encountered. Currently thinking of doing a double block of this post Christmas to try and level up a little.

Tuesday – Rest. In the city for work.

Wednesday – Bowlo. Moon campus workout on the medium rungs (last two exercises on the small rungs) and then a limit boulder for just over an hour and half. Even had a play on the Moonboard as creativity was lacking. A little flat today.

Thursday – Pretty much the same as yesterday but did a few hangs at home as I thought about heading out to try my project at Bardens but it ended up being a bit late in the day so opted for a Bowlo session. Good amount of hard boulders with Luke. Good session.

Friday – Bardens with Brecon, Luke and Matt. Conditions were mint. Couple of warmup laps on Way Of All Flesh then onto the project. First go just cleaned the holds and warmed up the power. 2nd shot felt awesome but fell walking my feet to the Bloodline ledge. 3rd shot done. Blood Clot 32. Good to finally put this to rest. Took a little longer than I thought it would. Also had a go at Brain Hemorrhage but fell on the last move. Was a little gassed and unfamiliar. Disappointing as I think I could of nailed it but my mind was pretty tired and I just climbed into a shit position and hesitated. #chickenwing I kinda like these moments in hindsight. So much to gain from these experiences. I should of nailed it but didn’t.

Smashed a big tallie (Munich Helles) from BlackFont Brewhouse (thanks Stu!!) and some chilli chips to celebrate. Haven’t been doing this of late but think it is important… Have been a bit too focused on the next goal as soon as one is done.

Saturday – Rest. Helping Caitlin at a market.

Sunday – Bardens with Stu and Clint. Couple of warmup laps on WOAF then sent Brain Hemorrhage first go of the day. Quick car park AeroPress (some Sample Coffee Toucan Party Blend) then down to Baronia. 2 goes and Mechanical Animals. Felt good. A little issue with the intro mono sequence. Just got to work out the feet and explore the move without the mono. Managed to link from the left crimp and low gaston to the top on my second go which is pretty positive. Pretty psyched to nail this fucker! Finished off the day with a brew at Summit Gear in Katoomba for a DMM event.

Good week!

Alpha Leather

A little gem of a route. Only 12 meters but packs a punch.

Bolted by Mike Law in the early 90’s and went through various versions (chips, glue and jazz) but finally settled in at 32 with Garth Miller claiming the first ascent in 1999.

It is two V8’ish boulders separated by a jug in the middle.

These days a few new school tricks have been found for the end boulder so most consider the first boulder the business.

If you are in the Blue Mountains and you are into hard sport climbing, you gotta do it!

On a side note. It is kinda hard to film a super gnarly route when you have an A4 injury 🤣

On Belay

This is about to be a thing about climbing, training and sharing the passion.

Lately a large portion of my brain has been occupied with various aspects of climbing and I’m keen to share some thoughts. No grand plans, just document what I’m inspired to and see where it goes.

Similar to stepping off the ground on an on-sight.