Week 14

Monday – Starting to dial back the training for the upcoming trips. 30min run in the arvo.

Tuesday – Fingerboard in the morning – 2 arm chis – tape on fingers but still pulled good weight – would’ve liked to do 7/53 but 3 taped fingers it wasn’t the best option as some of the grips are a bit too friction dependent. Limit boulder session in the evening. Finished off with some GT repeaters.

Wednesday – Core at lunch time then circuits with 6kg vest. Brutal. 3 probs x 4 – 5min rest. + GT repeaters to cook myself a little more.

Thursday – Rest day.

Friday – Failed 7/53 hang session. Super tuckered. Not feeling 100%. Also aborted evening circuit session to rest up.

Saturday – Arvo session at Elphinstone. Not feeling that good but still managed 3 pitches clean up to 31 (tiger vinyl)

Sunday – Late session at Elphinstone. Feeling a little better and conditions were mint. No fall day. Only 3 pitches due to time and not wanting to put myself in a hole for the coming weeks. Tiger Snatch, Tiger Cat and Bandula. Good session. Feel ready to spin the dial up 😉

On a side note – some slight issues with my left elbow/bicep. Will monitor closely. Might need to see a pro for some management tactics.

Week 13

Beta Vinyl

Monday – Core class and then an easy endurance workout (3 x 10 – 5min b/w)

Tuesday – 1 arm chisel fingerboard + crimp repeaters in the morning and circuits in the evening. Same 3 boulders but 5 times. Still 5min rest and + 5kg.

Wednesday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Thursday – 2 arm chisel fingerboard plus 3 reps of crimp repeaters to finish. Limit boulder in the evening at the Bowlo.

Friday – Strength at home in the morning then circuits in the evening. 32 moves x 5 – 5 min b/w +5kg. Skin sore. Tuckered.

Saturday – A slow morning waiting for the weather to clear. Quick warmup at the Bowlo then headed down the the Glen with Doug and Tom. Crag board warmup and then fired Moonshadow (hard 32, easy 33 🤷‍♂️) First go. Psyched. Was fun as the top was wet.

Sunday – Elphinstone with a good crew. Conditions were insane. Managed to send Beta Vinyl 33. Super happy as it is one of the harder rock routes I have done. It’s v9/10ish into a long 31. Super classic and happy to have it done. 4th day on.

Time to start cutting down on the volume and bumping up the intensity. Also playing around with some specific Groove Train hangboard repeaters…

Week 12

Monday – Core class and then an easy endurance workout (3 x 10 – 5min b/w)

Tuesday – 7/53 on the hang session. Missed the open 3 and pinch due to running out of time for La Sportiva Summit Gear evening. Some awesome progression on the first 2 grips.

Wednesday – Morning Moonboard (6 problems x 3 – 3 min b/w). Circuits in the evening 3 boulders (32 moves) x 4 – 5 min b/w + 5kg vest)

Thursday – Rest day.

Friday – 2 arm chisel fingerboard plus 3 reps of crimp repeaters to finish. Circuits in the evening 3 boulders (32 moves) x 5 – 5 min b/w + 5kg vest)

Saturday – Elphinstone – 4 routes. Tried Beta Vinyl and Tiger Cat into the top of Beta Vinyl. Not the best conditions but made the most of it.

Sunday – DF with Stu and Clint. Shit conditions – 3 routes (Hairline, dogged Dog Bite, dogged Mr Tickle).

Week wasn’t the best due to work stress and disrupted week nights but managed to get the top priority sessions in.

Week 11

Monday – 7/53 hang then core class.

Tuesday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Wednesday – 2 arm chisel hang in the morning. Freestyle limit boulder in the evening at the Bowlo (1 and half hours).

Thursday – Rest day. Travel to Tassie.

Friday – A few circuits (6 x grade 27ish) on Gazza’s wall after 30min limit boulder.

Saturday – Sandy River with a Bisso, Garry and Dan. 23 x 3, 25 x 2, 26 x 3.

Sunday – 1 arm chisel on Awesome Woody board. 3 at straight, 3 at 90. 3 sets of crimp repeaters and some general core jazz on the rings.

Strange week due to 4 days in Tassie. Feel ok but not awesome. A few big weeks so that is probably expected.

Also time to get on the carrots 🙂

Week 10

Monday – 7/53 hang then core class.

Tuesday – Rest day. 20min yoga.

Wednesday – 2 arm chisel (6 x 10sec max) hangs around lunch time. Limit boulder in the evening. Felt cooked as in the evening boulder session. Probably didn’t do the hangs early enough in the day.

Thursday – Strength in the morning the circuits (4x4x4 – 3min between) in the evening. Pretty tired.

Friday – 1 arm chisel (6 hangs – 3 straight – 3 at 90) 10 secs max. Limit Boulder in the evening.

Saturday – Rest day.

Sunday – Elphinstone with Luke. Awesome conditions. Tried beta vinyl x 4 and tiger cat into love vinyl at the end of the day. + 20 min yoga.

Week was pretty good. Pretty tired but having the awesome conditions on Sunday was the highlight. So bloody good!!

Week 9

Monday – Core class.

Tuesday – Good limit boulder session. Felt good.

Wednesday – 2 arm chisel fingerboard. System board (4 reps) and easy endurance (3 x 10min blocks)

Thursday – Rest Day – travel to Melbourne.

Friday – Tried Groove Train x 1

Saturday – Tried Groove Train x 2

Sunday – Tried Groove Train x 2

Super rad to get back on the Taipan wall. After about 9 years. GT felt awesome. Fell crossing to the whales mouth on the last day. Pretty stupid. Can’t wait for the easter break to give it hell!

The Wheel of Life

Late last year I went back to the Grampians with Brecon to film the process of climbing The Wheel. I hope you like it.

Week 8

Monday – Rest day. 30min run.

Tuesday – 7/53 on the fingerboard. Feeling some progression. Boulder session in the evening at the bowlo.

Wednesday – Strength at home then 3 x 10 min of easy climbing at the bowl.

Thursday – System board – 4 reps in the AM. Limit boulder in the evening.

Friday – Rest day.

Saturday – 7/53 workout. Elphinstone in the afternoon – Tried beta vinyl. Conditions were pretty junk.

Sunday – Back at the stone. Tried beta vinyl again.

Week 7

Monday – Hangboard and core class. Fingers are adapting well with the current 7/53 workout. I’ll continue to squeeze as much out of it as possible.

Tuesday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Wednesday – Morning hangboard and then the glen in the arvo with Luke. 2 laps to warmup then 3 goes on Moonshadow. Felt good. Fell off the 3rd last hard move.

Thursday – System board in the morning. Boulder in arvo (2 hours) then filming jazz with Brecon till about 10:30. Wrecked.

Friday – Glen with Luke. Super tuckered. Tried Moonshadow. Fell on initial jump. Called it early. Yesterday smashed me.

Saturday – Elphinstone. 3 routes. tired. Should’ve rested in hindsight.

Sometimes it’s braver to rest.

Sunday – Rest day.

A pretty shit week really. Too much rock time and not enough rest. Thursday really put a spanner in the works. Will need to rest up, re-group and keep on the structured path.

Save the Gramps

Shit got real. The Grampians, the best climbing area in Australia is not going to be the same.

Do everyone a favour please sign up to the Victorian Climbing Club to help fun people fight the good fight.

VCC

It’s only $75!

Week 6

Monday – Light core session.

Tuesday – Moon Pig comp

Wednesday – A small boulder at the bowl (30min) then 2 x 60 moves with full recovery in-between.

Thursday – Rest day.

Friday – Super light warm up to keep the body awake 🙂

Saturday – NSW States. Super happy with the way I climbed and managed to take 3rd in a pretty stacked field. Glad I went in it. Super challenging but rewarding. I love that you have one opportunity to perform and you have to make it count.

Sunday – DF with Lee. 27, 29 and tried Dog Bite 31 x 3. Should’ve refined beta a little more on my first go. Felt like I should of done it, but didn’t…

A good week. Nice to lower volume and feel sharp. Strength is present. Looking forward to the cool temps in a few months as I feel I’m on the right direction.

Week 5

Monday – Fingerboard and System board (4 reps) in the evening. Fingers are starting to work.

Tuesday – Rest day. 30 min jog after train ride home for the city.

Wednesday – Fingerboard and System board (4 reps).

Went to Glenbrook in the evening with Mel and Caitlin to hear Ryan Sandes talk about running.

Thursday – Easy endurance recovery – 10min x 3 (5min between)

Friday – Bowlo limit session with Luke and started resetting the 45 with 100 Beastmaker holds. It will be good!

Watch Free Solo in the evening. Top film.

Saturday – Villawood with Tom and Dave. 11 routes up to 29.

Chicken at Frangos on the way home for recovery. BamBam!

Sunday – Yoga. Bowlo limit session with Tom on the new 45 layout. Top session.

Another good week. Feels good to lowering the volume a bit and letting the body do its thing. Feel a little flat but fingers crossed should be sharpening up for Tuesdays Moonpig comp and the NSW States on Saturday.

Week 4

Monday – Fingerboard and core class.

Tuesday – Early Campus – 1 hour. Flared up the left elbow which is a little annoying but in hindsight I have be dropping the hammer in terms of volume so wasn’t that much of a surprise. Will just have to work around it till in calms down.

Wednesday – Rest day – 30 min run

Thursday – System board (6 reps) in the morning then Camp St in the arvo with Ben and Lee. Felt ok in the evening. Nice to try some new blocs on different holds/walls.

Friday – Villawood with Dave. Felt ok but a little taxed from the late boulder session yesterday. Looking forward to being fresh and getting a better grasp of where things are at. 11 routes up to 29 with some doubles.

Oh yeah and we ate some killer chicken on the way home.

Saturday – Quick strength session in the morning.

Sunday – Diamond Falls with Brecon at 7:30. Another 35 degree day so trying to make the most of the coldish overnight temps. Conditions weren’t crazy bad but not that enjoyable. 4 laps in total. Manage to get up Lightyears (31) which was the goal for the day.

Beer and pizza was consumed.

Another biggish week in the bank. A few hard sessions next week then will turn back the dial for the upcoming comp and next block. All in all, things have been going well.

Week 3

Monday – Fingerboard and core class.

Tuesday – Rest day – In the city for work.

Wednesday – Morning system board session (increased to 5 reps) followed by a freestyle boulder session at The Blackheath Lab. 2 hours of cutting sick.

Thursday – Fingerboard – digits felt alive and well 🙂

Friday – Super early morning at Gateway with Luke to beat the 38 degree day. Played on Middle Earth (should’ve done it!!) and Fighting Urak – Hai. In the arvo did a strength session. Pretty cooked.

Saturday – Rest day – 30 min run

Sunday – System board in the morning then hit Baronia with Lee in the arvo. Fun session is shit conditions. Some speed climbing antics with the younger generation (me on Don’t Believe the Hype and Angie on Don’t Believe the Tripe… I lost…). Also lots of training talk with Lee to make sure time is being spent on the right things. Talking and hanging out with people that continually challenge themselves is highly recommended.

Psyched to have another solid week in the bank. Body and fingers feel worked. Volume is pretty high at the moment but hopefully it can cope with it. Would like to get in another limit boulder session in so will address that in the coming week (If it is too hot maybe just a limit campus workout).

Week 2

Monday – Fingerboard, core class and a quick endurance session (3 x 10 min on the wall with 5 min between) to kick the new training block off.

Tuesday – Rest day – In the city for work. 30 min run in the late evening. Good to get this in because sitting on the train for around 5 hours sucks…

Wednesday – System board in the morning (4 hold / 4 reps). I have been meaning to do a block of system boarding and have finally made time for it. At the moment I’m doing 4 grip types (sloper, chisel, open 3 and crimp) in a really slow and controlled way (10 – 12 moves) aiming for a work time between 30 – 45 secs with a 2min rest between reps, and 8-10 between sets. I’ll report back on how it goes in a bit 🙂

Bowlo in the arvo. 6 boulders, each 3 times (3 min rest between goes).

Thursday – Fingerboard and strength. Did a combined session to see what it would be like. Not a fan but maybe that is the point. It felt hard and I don’t think I nailed the balance (too many strength exercises).

Friday – Villawood with Luke. 12 routes. A variety of singles and doubles up to 28. Fuck I love this style.

Saturday – Rest Day – 40 min run (a bit too hilly in hindsight).

Sunday – System board in the morning and Elphinstone with Luke, Matt B and Matty P in the arvo. Couple of laps on Tiger Snatch and 2 goes on Beta Vinyl. Temps were junk but good to get out and work on climbing whilst in an uncomfortable state. Brain training 🙂

Good to have week one done. Hard but good.

It always takes a little to adjust to full training mode but give it a few weeks and it will be the way of life. If you want to make it happen you will. If you don’t you won’t.

Week 1

Not much to report this week as I rested all week.

Just resetting the mind and body, a little planning and some quality chill time.

Let the hard work begin 💥

Week 52

Monday – Rest – Getting organised for Christmas Day.

Tuesday – Christmas Day

Wednesday – Boxing Day – Adamsfield with Bisso and Grug. First shot boom! Finally sent the link-up after thinking about it for quite a few years. Also did a route in the Bear Pit (some 25) and Red Back Fever 26 at the Trapeze. Good day.

I’ll go into detail about the link in a separate post 🙂

Thursday – Rest

Friday – Sandy River with Bisso. Tried a few hard things but it was hot as fuck as I wasn’t that into it.

Saturday – Bouldered at Gazza’s for a couple of hours.

Sunday – Shed Fingerboard + 30 min run.

Hectic time of year but was awesome to make the most of Boxing Day and get the link-up done. Such a rad route. Chuffed!! Now time to chill and enjoy the festive season.

Magic Potion Extension

I first headed out to Adamsfield at the ripe old age of 16 and managed to snag my first 25. Ever since then it has always been a place that has provided good times and great memories.

The Magic Potion Extension links the Sub Zero boulder problem (V8) into the classic Sam Edwards, Magic Potion (29). A power endurance monster.

I was fortunate to make the second ascent just a few weeks after Ryan Sklenica snagged the first. Make time for it peeps. It is a cracker!

Baffle Days – The Wheel of Life

A close friend and bloody good climber Tom O’Halloran started a podcast and I was lucky to be guest number one.

The Baffle Days podcast is THE Australian climbing podcast. Chatting to the old school legends, modern day heroes and everyone else who make up our awesome community. Tune in for stories, opinions, training and nutrition info. Spreading the love.

You can find the podcast on the Website or on iTunes.