Week 32

Monday – Rest day.

Tuesday – Finger board in the morning. Boulder in the evening.

Wednesday – System board in the morning and circuits in the evening – Project 4×3 probs x 4 – (8min between 40ish moves).

Thursday – Rest.

Friday – Nowra. Tried the Cheesy Afro Box x 4. Fell last move.

Saturday – Nowra. Tried the Cheesy Afro Box x 3 – punished.

Sunday – Rest. Tuckered.

Week 31

Monday – Rest day.

Tuesday – Hangboard in the morning. Campus in the evening and warm down with 3 blocks of 10 min.

Wednesday – System board in the morning (wide slopers, 3 finger chisel, 3 finger pocket and front 2) – 12ish moves (45secs) 2min between and 5 min between holds.

Boulder in the evening.

Thursday – Circuits – 4×4 x 3 – (a set is about 57moves).

Friday – Rest.

Saturday – Nowra. Tried the Cheesy Afro Box x 4

Sunday – Nowra. Tried the Cheesy Afro Box x 3 – punished.

Week 30

Monday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Tuesday – Early fingerboard then campus in the bowlo in the evening.

Wednesday – Limit boulder in the evening. Was good to get back on the boulder wall. Felt like it had been a while.

Thursday – Rest day.

Friday – Glen with Luke. Warmup at the bowlo then 3 x Street Walkin’ Cheetah. Managed to get to the boulder twice from the ground. The cold weather didn’t help with the pump…

Saturday – DF with a large crew. Super Dooper Goo x 2, Mr Pink x 3. Fell going to the pocket. Was good to finally get to the upper boulder from the ground. Feels good. Also unlocked the top move with an index ring lock 🤯

Sunday – 2 hour freestyle session at Nomad gym with Tom Farrell. Was good to jump around and do some new school bloc. Something that I’m keen to do more of.

A pretty easy week in terms of volume. Intensity was high when I climbed. Felt very refreshing.

About to book some tickets to Europe so things are about to ramp up again 🙂 Frothing.

Week 29

Monday – Some easy endurance to get the body recovering and some yoga. Bit of a brutal weekend.

Tuesday – Hang board (2 sets). Limit campus in the evening (1-4-7 a couple of times on the left).

Wednesday – Strength in the evening.

Thursday – Hang board (2 sets). Limit campus on the boulder wall in the evening.

Friday – The Glen with Luke. Tried Street Walking’ Cheetah x 3. Linked to the boulder and managed to do the boulder from the last jug to the last move. Things felt good. Pretty happy with how things went.

Saturday – DF with a big crew. Tried Mr Pink x 3. Skin shit! Annoying. I think this climb can only really be climbed with good skin and fresh. Also did Hairline and Mr Puniverse.

Sunday – Some easy endurance (3 x 10min). Felt super cooked today. Was super hard to rest today due to the weather but I think it was a good idea to have a rest.

Think I’ll have another easy’ish week before embarking on a good solid block to try and seal some hard routes at the stone when it comes into season.

Week 28

Talking shit with Rob about the history of Attack Mode.

Monday – Hang board in the morning. Campus then some easy endurance in the evening.

Tuesday – Yoga and strength.

Wednesday – Campus in the morning (managed 1-4-7 on left) and some max hangs in the afternoon. Did some PB’s

  • right hand +5kg middle Beastmaker. 2-3 secs
  • right hand on the 1000 outside edge. 2-3 secs

Thursday – Rest – City for work.

Friday – Nowra with Luke and Kerrin. PC – Fell on the extension x 2 but happy to do White Ladder twice.

Saturday – Sent White Ladder extension. Psyched. Did some sections for filming then did Hopelessly Devoted To You 29.

Sunday – A bit cooked. South Central with Brecon – Black Rage 29 and a lap on Ain’t No Sunshine 28.

Was super chuffed to get the extension done. Looking forward to the little film Brecon is putting together.

Now a little bit of a rest week then will focus on Mr Pink/Pinky whilst it is cold.

Week 27

Monday – Strength. 

Tuesday – Hang board in the morning.

New grips (7/53)

  • 10mm beastmaker micros – 2 arm
  • Chisel on 1000 bottom outside – 1 arm
  • Open 3 on outside 2000 – 2 arm

Max campus and boulder in the evening. Feels good to be campusing again. Just got to make sure the elbows don’t get inflamed.

Wednesday – Campus and boulder in the evening.

Thursday – Rest – Strength in the evening.

Friday – Hang board in the morning then an awesome session at 9 degrees doing some new school blocs with Dave. Super fun and something that I am keen to do more of.

Saturday – Rest – Easy endurance in the evening (10 x 3 – 5 b/w)

Sunday – DF with Brecon and Stu. Tried Mr Pink x 3. Went well. Managed to do the crux boulder 2 times in a row. Some more fine tuning then will go for it.

Week 26

Monday – Strength. Small campus and boulder in the evening.

Tuesday – Hang board in the morning and boulder in the evening.

Wednesday – Rest kinda… Went bolting in Bungonia with a good crew. Watch this space.

Thursday – Rest.

Friday – Nowra – wanted to try White Ladder but conditions were junk. Went to Thompsons and did Skin to Skin.

Saturday – White Ladder ✅ Also played on the extension.

Sunday – Tried the extension again. Good weekend. Psyched.

Pretty keen to get a few weeks of training in now as I have been pretty conservative the last month trying to get White Ladder done. It did the trick but keen to sharpen up again.

Week 25

Monday – Strength in the morning and then a good hang session in the evening. Seemed like ages since a good hangboard. Numbers were down but tried hard so all is good.

Tuesday – Some finger testing with Lee Cujes. Then a little Moonboarding.

All testing was on the lattice rung at half crimped.

2 arms – 47kg (50kg next time I reckon)
1 arm – 12kg (felt easy but failed with 7kg)
Anaerobic capacity – 278 seconds (only did the first hang – no weight added. Any grip)

Wednesday – Small boulder at Camp St – 1.5 hours. Good to pull on some different holds.

Thursday – Rest day. 30 min easy (10min x 3 blocks) to loosen up.

Friday – Nowra with Luke. Warm up , 25, 28, put the draws on the top section of dedicated to the dude. White Ladder x 4. High point (AM clean x 3)

Saturday – Warm up , 25, 28 and then 4 goes on White Ladder – highpoint – fell slapping clipping jug. Guttered.

Sunday – Rest day. 30 min easy (10 x 3) + Yoga.

Week 24

Monday – Nowra – PC – 4 goes on White Ladder. Go to crux. Issues getting my right foot up.

Tuesday – Strength session at home then an easy 30 min (10 x 3 ) at the bowlo to get the blood flowing.

Wednesday – Small hang board session due to busy work day. Evening boulder at the bowlo.

Thursday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Friday – Nowra with Luke. Warm up , 25, 28, flash Meet the G (lower anchor) and then 4 goes on White Ladder – 3 goes got to moving right foot.

Saturday – Warm up , 25, 28 and then 3 goes on White Ladder – highpoint – fell slapping crux hold of the knee scrum.

Sunday – Rest day.

Week 23

Monday – Easy boulder session to get back into it. 60 min on the Moonboard (each prob 3 times, resting 3 min).

Tuesday – Free style boulder at the Bowlo – Good 2 hour power session.

Wednesday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Thursday – Rest day. Easy endurance at lunch – 3 x 10min (5min between).

Friday – Nowra with Luke. Sent Attackmode after putting the draws on and falling on the 3rd move a couple of time. Psyched. Tried once about 8 year ago. Started working on White Ladder. Feels good.

Saturday – Rest day. Flu…

Sunday – Back to Nowra. Late arvo send of Sperm Bitches. Punted the top so ended up doing it twice. Also psyched to get this done as I have tried it off and on and it has felt super hard. This time just dispatched.

An ok week. A little disrupted of having a flu and getting back into the swing of things. Not heaps of training but got some good quality moves on rock which is nice, especially this time of year.

Think I’ll put all my eggs in the White Ladder basket for a few weeks and see what happens….

Castle Hill 2019

Since the Grampians is undergoing some serious adjustments it was time to head over the ditch for a bit of pebble wresting. I had been to The Hill twice before. Both times in stupidly hot weather and for a very limited amount of time so it was awesome to have a dedicated trip at the right time of year.

I had lots on the “to-do” list but didn’t really get to sink the teeth into anything hard and the weather didn’t really align. All in all, managed some nice classics within the weather windows we had. Feels like I did a mini apprenticeship.

  • Snake Eyes V8
  • Mullet Arete V6
  • Sunset Arete V8
  • Obelisk V9
  • Porky V8
  • Left Trifecta V8
  • Jet Stream V9 (flash)
  • How Big Is Blue V7
  • Captain Nemo V8
  • Pandemonium V7
  • The Joker V9
📷 kamilsustiak.com
📷 kamilsustiak.com
📷 Dave Bailey

Week 22

Quantum Mechanics – 📷 Dave Brailey

Monday – Rest day.

Tuesday – Flock Hill.

Wednesday – Flock Hill.

Thursday – Rest day. Weather shit.

Friday – Spittle.

Saturday – Rest day. Weather shit.

Sunday – Quantum. Fly Home.

Week 21

http://www.kamilsustiak.com

Monday – 7/53 fingerboard – fingers felt tops. After the small Gramps trip they felt asleep. Now all is good. Probably the strongest they have been. Strength in the evening.

Tuesday – Limit boulder in the Bowlo.

Wednesday – Limit boulder in the Bowlo.

Thursday – Rest day. Travel to NZ for some Castle Hill boulder action for 10 days with a good crew (Doug, Dave, Lee and Kamil).

Friday – Spittle/Quantum

Saturday – Flock Hill

Sunday – Flock Hill

Week 20

Monday – Strength in the morning and 7/53 fingerboard session in the evening.

Tuesday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Wednesday – Limit boulder in the Bowlo.

Thursday – Strength in the morning. Campus in the evening.

Friday – Underworld with Tom. Tried Sack of Woe a few times and then finished the evening at the Bowlo with 3 lots of 10min on the wall to get some blood flowing.

Saturday – Rest day.

Sunday – Elphinstone – tried the pig x 1. Conditions were utter junk. Not psyched.

Week 19

Monday – Rest day. Big weekend.

Tuesday – 7/53 fingerboard and limit boulder at the Bolwo in the evening.

Wednesday – Strength at home (new Dan John style – 5 exercises – 3 reps x 3). Campus in the evening.

Thursday – 7/53 fingerboard in the morning. Campus in the evening.

Friday – Rest day.

Saturday – Elphinstone – tried the pig x 3

Sunday – Elphinstone – tried the pig x 3

Week 18

Monday – Back into it and psyched. Was good to focus on the GT but now need to focus on more power and strength.

7/53 – new grip (2 arm 3 finger chisel beastmaker 1000, 1 arm middle chisel beastmaker 2000 and 2 arm open 3 beastmaker 2000).

Bowlo in the evening – 6 x 3 probs moonboard (3 min between probs).

Tuesday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Wednesday – 7/53 fingerboard workout. Fun boulder in the evening.

Thursday – Campus – just some random moves every 2 minutes to get into it.

Friday – 3 x 10min easy endurance. Yoga.

Saturday – Elphinstone – tried the pig x 3

Sunday – Elphinstone – tried the pig x 3

Week 17

Monday – Another session on Sneaky Snake. Coming together. Still trying it without the left start to save time and energy for the top section. Feels good. Also had a play on Agent of Cool with Ryan.

Tuesday – Rest Day.

Wednesday – 2 goes on Sneaky Snake.

Thursday – 2 goes on Sneaky Snake.

Friday – Rest day. Helped Caitlin with her long run down south.

Saturday – 1 go on Sneak Snake. Fell last hard move. Guttered. Put in the effort but didn’t come away with it. Looking forward to getting back on this rig ASAP.

Started the drive home. Decided to go the back way.

Sunday – Rest day. Still driving.

Week 16

http://www.kamilsustiak.com

Monday – Fingerboard – 2 arm chis. Skin pretty shit from the weekend but good to get some weight into them.

Tuesday – Rest Day. In the city for work.

Wednesday – Small boulder in the arvo, GT repeaters and 3 x 10min easy on the wall.

Thursday – Rest day. Start the drive to the Grampians.

Friday – Finish drive. An evening walk to get the blood flowing.

Saturday – Mr J to warm up and then sent the Groove Train first shot. BOOM!!! Psyched. Felt super good.

Sunday – Checked out southern exposure and then put the draws on Sneaky Snake.

Week 15

Monday – Rest day. Some Yoga.

Tuesday – Visited the physiotherapist in the morning to get some advice on my left bicep issue. Evening had a max campus (chisel grip) and finished off with some GT repeaters.

Wednesday – Hang board (2 arm chisel) at midday and circuits in the evening. circuit session.

Thursday – Rest day – Travel to Gramps to meet Stu, Matty and Kamil for a 3 day mission on the Groove Train.

Friday – 3 goes on the GT.

Saturday – 2 goes on the GT.

Sunday –  2 goes on the GT.

A super awesome weekend. Psych was super high and things felt good. Weather was not the best but all was good.

Feel stupidly crossing to the whales mouth on one of my goes.

Hopefully next week things work out.