Week 38

Monday – Hangboard and limit boulder session (moonboard) in the evening.

Tuesday – PE Circuits – 35 moves x 6 with 2min rest (+3kg) in the morning, then 4×4’s with 1min rest between probs and 5 min between sets. Punished.

Wednesday – Rest day.

Thursday – Hangboard in the morning. Focusing on recruitment. Limit boulder at the bowlo in the evening.

Friday – A few boulders, 4×4’s, 2 goes on the project circuit then headed out to the cliff. 4 x Way of all Flesh. Good training day.

Saturday – St Peters bouldering with a big crew. Prob 3 hours.

Sunday – Rest day.

4 big weeks in the bank. Time to rest up and reap the rewards. Looking forward to focusing on some recruitment in the coming week then a few sessions in Innsbruck.

Week 37

Monday – PE Circuits – 35 moves x 6 with 2.5min rest (+3kg)

Tuesday – Hangboard in the morning. 30 min boulder then project circuit x 3. Project circuit is around 31/32.

Wednesday – Rest day.

Thursday – Hangboard in the morning. Moonboard in the evening. Good to jump on the Moonboard to mix it up.

Friday – Warmup in the Bowlo, 30 min campus then out to the Glen with Luke. Tried Street Walkin’ Cheetah x 3 (got to last boulder twice) then a quick hack up Microwave (fell at the last boulder).

Saturday – Rest day.

Sunday – Warmup at the bowlo then Elphinstone. 3 goes up the pig (got to slot rest x 2) then one go up tiger cat (fell at slot). Good day.

Top week. Lots of moves and felt good at the stone.

Week 36

Monday – PE Circuits – 35 moves x 6 with 3.5min rest (+3kg) Circuit is around grade 27.

Tuesday – Rest day.

Wednesday – 40min Campus in the morning. Elphinstone in the afternoon. Shoulder was a bit tweaked so didn’t go full-gas but tried the Pig x 2 (linked to crimp traverse) and did Tiger Snatch x 2.

Thursday – Hangboard in the morning then 4×4’s with 1min rest between probs and 5 min between sets (+4kg)

Friday – Hangboard in the morning. 1 attempt on the project circuit, completed it but skin was pretty fucked so just did 3 x 10min with ankle weights.

Saturday – Rest day. 40min run in the afternoon with Caitlin and Andy.

Sunday – Blochouse boulder session – 3 hours with 45min campus.

Week 35

Monday – Some strength in the evening after being in the city for work.

Tuesday – Hangboard (5 x 10secs – 2 arms bm1000) then some limit bouldering in the evening at the Bowlo.

Wednesday – Campus to warm into the session (30 mins) then 4×4’s with 3kg vest.

Thursday – Hangboard (same session as on Tesday) then project circuit (45 moves x 4 with 10ish min rest). Felt a bit fitter.

Friday – St Peters boulder gym with Dave, Luke, Doug and Kerrin. Epic 3+ hour session.

Saturday – Strength + small run.

Sunday – Elphinstone – Tiger snatch x 2 (plus 1 warm up to half height). Tiger Cat x 1 (good to put a lap on this early in the season) and one go on the pig.

Good solid week. Things are heading in the right direction. A few more weeks of hard training and all should be good.

Week 34

Monday – Small amount of campusing then some good blocs at the Bowlo. Felt quite good.

Tuesday – Some max hangs to get the session started then 4×4’s with 3kg added. 1 min between probs, 5 min between sets. Focusing on harder strength blocs with this session.

Wednesday – Some max hangs to get the ball rolling then project circuit x 4 (40-45 moves) (8-10min rest). Didn’t complete it but got super close twice. Felt a little tired from the 4×4’s yesterday.

Thursday – Rest.

Friday – The Glen with Luke. Tried Street Walking Cheetah x 3 Fell on the match twice. Also went up Tsunami at the end of the day.

Saturday – Elphinstone – Tiger Cat x 3 (slot x 2 – should’ve done it…), Tiger Snatch x 1. Was good to just go to the crag not in project mode.

Sunday – Run with Caitlin (2 hours…) Bowlo in the evening – 35 moves x 5 (+3kg) 5 min b/w.  10min with vest x 2 (5min b/w)

Week probably should’ve been a bit easier due to the upcoming block but was good to get some moves done at the stone in good conditions.

Week 33

Monday – Hangboard late in the evening after being in the city. Felt junk but good to get it done. Even though the hangs were shit it pushed the mind.

Tuesday – Early campus at the Bowlo then boulder in the evening at Camp St with Ben and Garth. Good session.

Wednesday – Core in the morning and project circuits in the evening. Good to do the circuit once out of 4. Having a little longer rest (10 min)

Thursday – Rest.

Friday – The Glen with Luke. Tried Street Walking Cheetah x 3 Fell on the match.

Saturday – DF – Tried Mr Pink x 3 – Skin sore. Felt junkish…

Sunday – Rest. Some Easy Endurance (10min x 4 with ankle weights).

Next week I’ll adjust some things and try and have a little bit or a lower volume in preparation for a couple of good blocks pre-Europe.

Week 32

Monday – Rest day.

Tuesday – Finger board in the morning. Boulder in the evening.

Wednesday – System board in the morning and circuits in the evening – Project 4×3 probs x 4 – (8min between 40ish moves).

Thursday – Rest.

Friday – Nowra. Tried the Cheesy Afro Box x 4. Fell last move.

Saturday – Nowra. Tried the Cheesy Afro Box x 3 – punished.

Sunday – Rest. Tuckered.

Week 31

Monday – Rest day.

Tuesday – Hangboard in the morning. Campus in the evening and warm down with 3 blocks of 10 min.

Wednesday – System board in the morning (wide slopers, 3 finger chisel, 3 finger pocket and front 2) – 12ish moves (45secs) 2min between and 5 min between holds.

Boulder in the evening.

Thursday – Circuits – 4×4 x 3 – (a set is about 57moves).

Friday – Rest.

Saturday – Nowra. Tried the Cheesy Afro Box x 4

Sunday – Nowra. Tried the Cheesy Afro Box x 3 – punished.

Week 30

Monday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Tuesday – Early fingerboard then campus in the bowlo in the evening.

Wednesday – Limit boulder in the evening. Was good to get back on the boulder wall. Felt like it had been a while.

Thursday – Rest day.

Friday – Glen with Luke. Warmup at the bowlo then 3 x Street Walkin’ Cheetah. Managed to get to the boulder twice from the ground. The cold weather didn’t help with the pump…

Saturday – DF with a large crew. Super Dooper Goo x 2, Mr Pink x 3. Fell going to the pocket. Was good to finally get to the upper boulder from the ground. Feels good. Also unlocked the top move with an index ring lock 🤯

Sunday – 2 hour freestyle session at Nomad gym with Tom Farrell. Was good to jump around and do some new school bloc. Something that I’m keen to do more of.

A pretty easy week in terms of volume. Intensity was high when I climbed. Felt very refreshing.

About to book some tickets to Europe so things are about to ramp up again 🙂 Frothing.

Week 29

Monday – Some easy endurance to get the body recovering and some yoga. Bit of a brutal weekend.

Tuesday – Hang board (2 sets). Limit campus in the evening (1-4-7 a couple of times on the left).

Wednesday – Strength in the evening.

Thursday – Hang board (2 sets). Limit campus on the boulder wall in the evening.

Friday – The Glen with Luke. Tried Street Walking’ Cheetah x 3. Linked to the boulder and managed to do the boulder from the last jug to the last move. Things felt good. Pretty happy with how things went.

Saturday – DF with a big crew. Tried Mr Pink x 3. Skin shit! Annoying. I think this climb can only really be climbed with good skin and fresh. Also did Hairline and Mr Puniverse.

Sunday – Some easy endurance (3 x 10min). Felt super cooked today. Was super hard to rest today due to the weather but I think it was a good idea to have a rest.

Think I’ll have another easy’ish week before embarking on a good solid block to try and seal some hard routes at the stone when it comes into season.

Week 28

Talking shit with Rob about the history of Attack Mode.

Monday – Hang board in the morning. Campus then some easy endurance in the evening.

Tuesday – Yoga and strength.

Wednesday – Campus in the morning (managed 1-4-7 on left) and some max hangs in the afternoon. Did some PB’s

  • right hand +5kg middle Beastmaker. 2-3 secs
  • right hand on the 1000 outside edge. 2-3 secs

Thursday – Rest – City for work.

Friday – Nowra with Luke and Kerrin. PC – Fell on the extension x 2 but happy to do White Ladder twice.

Saturday – Sent White Ladder extension. Psyched. Did some sections for filming then did Hopelessly Devoted To You 29.

Sunday – A bit cooked. South Central with Brecon – Black Rage 29 and a lap on Ain’t No Sunshine 28.

Was super chuffed to get the extension done. Looking forward to the little film Brecon is putting together.

Now a little bit of a rest week then will focus on Mr Pink/Pinky whilst it is cold.

Week 27

Monday – Strength. 

Tuesday – Hang board in the morning.

New grips (7/53)

  • 10mm beastmaker micros – 2 arm
  • Chisel on 1000 bottom outside – 1 arm
  • Open 3 on outside 2000 – 2 arm

Max campus and boulder in the evening. Feels good to be campusing again. Just got to make sure the elbows don’t get inflamed.

Wednesday – Campus and boulder in the evening.

Thursday – Rest – Strength in the evening.

Friday – Hang board in the morning then an awesome session at 9 degrees doing some new school blocs with Dave. Super fun and something that I am keen to do more of.

Saturday – Rest – Easy endurance in the evening (10 x 3 – 5 b/w)

Sunday – DF with Brecon and Stu. Tried Mr Pink x 3. Went well. Managed to do the crux boulder 2 times in a row. Some more fine tuning then will go for it.

Week 26

Monday – Strength. Small campus and boulder in the evening.

Tuesday – Hang board in the morning and boulder in the evening.

Wednesday – Rest kinda… Went bolting in Bungonia with a good crew. Watch this space.

Thursday – Rest.

Friday – Nowra – wanted to try White Ladder but conditions were junk. Went to Thompsons and did Skin to Skin.

Saturday – White Ladder ✅ Also played on the extension.

Sunday – Tried the extension again. Good weekend. Psyched.

Pretty keen to get a few weeks of training in now as I have been pretty conservative the last month trying to get White Ladder done. It did the trick but keen to sharpen up again.

Week 25

Monday – Strength in the morning and then a good hang session in the evening. Seemed like ages since a good hangboard. Numbers were down but tried hard so all is good.

Tuesday – Some finger testing with Lee Cujes. Then a little Moonboarding.

All testing was on the lattice rung at half crimped.

2 arms – 47kg (50kg next time I reckon)
1 arm – 12kg (felt easy but failed with 7kg)
Anaerobic capacity – 278 seconds (only did the first hang – no weight added. Any grip)

Wednesday – Small boulder at Camp St – 1.5 hours. Good to pull on some different holds.

Thursday – Rest day. 30 min easy (10min x 3 blocks) to loosen up.

Friday – Nowra with Luke. Warm up , 25, 28, put the draws on the top section of dedicated to the dude. White Ladder x 4. High point (AM clean x 3)

Saturday – Warm up , 25, 28 and then 4 goes on White Ladder – highpoint – fell slapping clipping jug. Guttered.

Sunday – Rest day. 30 min easy (10 x 3) + Yoga.

Week 24

Monday – Nowra – PC – 4 goes on White Ladder. Go to crux. Issues getting my right foot up.

Tuesday – Strength session at home then an easy 30 min (10 x 3 ) at the bowlo to get the blood flowing.

Wednesday – Small hang board session due to busy work day. Evening boulder at the bowlo.

Thursday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Friday – Nowra with Luke. Warm up , 25, 28, flash Meet the G (lower anchor) and then 4 goes on White Ladder – 3 goes got to moving right foot.

Saturday – Warm up , 25, 28 and then 3 goes on White Ladder – highpoint – fell slapping crux hold of the knee scrum.

Sunday – Rest day.

Week 23

Monday – Easy boulder session to get back into it. 60 min on the Moonboard (each prob 3 times, resting 3 min).

Tuesday – Free style boulder at the Bowlo – Good 2 hour power session.

Wednesday – Rest day. In the city for work.

Thursday – Rest day. Easy endurance at lunch – 3 x 10min (5min between).

Friday – Nowra with Luke. Sent Attackmode after putting the draws on and falling on the 3rd move a couple of time. Psyched. Tried once about 8 year ago. Started working on White Ladder. Feels good.

Saturday – Rest day. Flu…

Sunday – Back to Nowra. Late arvo send of Sperm Bitches. Punted the top so ended up doing it twice. Also psyched to get this done as I have tried it off and on and it has felt super hard. This time just dispatched.

An ok week. A little disrupted of having a flu and getting back into the swing of things. Not heaps of training but got some good quality moves on rock which is nice, especially this time of year.

Think I’ll put all my eggs in the White Ladder basket for a few weeks and see what happens….

Castle Hill 2019

Since the Grampians is undergoing some serious adjustments it was time to head over the ditch for a bit of pebble wresting. I had been to The Hill twice before. Both times in stupidly hot weather and for a very limited amount of time so it was awesome to have a dedicated trip at the right time of year.

I had lots on the “to-do” list but didn’t really get to sink the teeth into anything hard and the weather didn’t really align. All in all, managed some nice classics within the weather windows we had. Feels like I did a mini apprenticeship.

  • Snake Eyes V8
  • Mullet Arete V6
  • Sunset Arete V8
  • Obelisk V9
  • Porky V8
  • Left Trifecta V8
  • Jet Stream V9 (flash)
  • How Big Is Blue V7
  • Captain Nemo V8
  • Pandemonium V7
  • The Joker V9
📷 kamilsustiak.com
📷 kamilsustiak.com
📷 Dave Bailey

Week 22

Quantum Mechanics – 📷 Dave Brailey

Monday – Rest day.

Tuesday – Flock Hill.

Wednesday – Flock Hill.

Thursday – Rest day. Weather shit.

Friday – Spittle.

Saturday – Rest day. Weather shit.

Sunday – Quantum. Fly Home.